The Ryokan


Travelers that come to stay in Tokyo might find them in a small hotel room surrounded by shiny neon lights, loud advertisement billboards and the buzzing vibe of the world's most populated city. However once you travel a few hours out of Tokyo, you’ll experience tranquility, impressive landscapes and the pure beauty of rural Japan. Adding up, there’s no better place to enjoy this ambiance than in a Ryokan [旅館], the traditional Japanese inn.

Going back in time when there were no neon lights there were still travelers that needed a place to stay along the way. That was when the first Ryokan and also the first hotel ever was founded - the Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan. Since its establishment in 705 A.D. hotels have changed of course, but there are still places where you can enjoy a glimpse of what travelers from centuries ago experienced.

After leaving the communal space in the entrance hall and opening the sliding door to the private room, you'll probably see a tatami floored room, a table, and supplies for making tea. On this table guests can also receive their meals that are usually included with the price of the room. Most Ryokans offer breakfast and dinner consisting of Japanese cuisine [kaiseki-ryōri, 懐石料理]. Originally Kaiseki refers to light dishes served with the tea ceremony and consist of regional and seasonal specialties.

When guests are out for the day, the staff [nakai, 仲居] moves the table aside and spreads out the futon, the traditional Japanese mattress, on the Tatami. Coming home, guests can change from their daily clothes to provided yukatas [浴衣, lit. "bathrobe"] and take a bath in the ofuro [お風呂], the common bathing areas. These baths often use the water of nearby hot springs [onsen], which leads to a high concentration of Ryokans in onsen areas.

To save some bucks you can enjoy the Ryokan flair in a Minshuku [民宿], where the overall experience is similar, but with less service and communal and optional dining. No matter what, staying in the Japanese countryside is an experience you don’t want to miss. The hospitality, the food, the onsen, and scenic nature are truly one of a kind.


Peter Obradovic, Berlin, 2023